- 日志
- 好友
- 卖家信用
- 买家信用
- 注册时间
- 2009-6-24
- 在线时间
- 小时
|
马上注册,结交更多好友,享用更多功能,让你轻松玩转社区。
您需要 登录 才可以下载或查看,没有账号?注册账号
x
本帖最后由 showtime911_bj 于 2009-7-29 18:32 编辑
★☆★☆★ 西东京-多摩地区[稲城長沼]篮球场 每周六下午★☆★☆★
★☆★☆★JR 西国分寺 攀岩爱好者-东京★☆★☆★
序
本文介紹一些攀登的技巧,在天然岩場多變化的地形特別有用,除了每一種動作做好,還要會綜合應用,當然這必須經過多次的練習才辦得到的。
平衡攀登之基礎 [ul] 找到踏足點後應依據技巧平穩的站住,切忌因姿勢改變而任意變動 把手點一般使用推壓方式較上拉方式為省力 不可在一個費力的姿勢停留過久,應保持連續性 使用較有力的部位,也就是能用腳站,就不要用手吊.......... [/ul]
基本原則 [ul] 用腳:每次移動向上時,應利用腳來支撐體重,不要用手吊單槓,手僅用來維持平衡。因此,攀登時不要一味往上尋找把手點,眼光下移,好的踏足點是成功的一半。 三點不動:要移動手或腳時,應將重心移至其餘三點,然後保持平衡,然後才可將該點的力量移除。從別人的攀登會發現 --- 為求重心的轉移,常會在岩壁上扭來扭去。 [/ul]
練習方式 [ul] 重心的轉移 嘗試不同的姿勢、韻律、節奏 [/ul]
張忠恕、邱子寰編譯
踏足點的踩法
Front-Pointing and Edging:Where one uses the edge of the climbing shoe to stand on small footholds. It has inside edging, outside edging, and fronting pointing.
正踩側踩:在小的踏足點上有三種踩法→內側、外側、正踩。
註:踩的面積大不一定好(可能變成磨擦點),要尋找較平好用力之處;所以鞋子不能太大,否則無法在小地方用力。
Smearing:Foot technique where a big part of the climbing shoe is used to pressed against a rock surface (小突點) to generate as much friction as possible. This is a technique to stand on rounded holds.
磨擦點:不是踩在小突點上而是鞋底的一大部份壓在岩面上盡量產生磨擦力,在圓滑的點上須用到。
註:這種技巧比上一個還難得多,而且要有信心才能在腳上多用力讓手省點力,其實愈用力磨擦力愈大愈穩。
Hooking
↓用腳後跟鉤住
↓用腳趾鉤住
把手點的抓法
Crimp Grip / Open Hand Grip / Wrap Grip / 捏(Pinch Grip)
註:Open hand grip 較不傷手指,且對難的點比較好抓,盡量習慣這種抓法。
↓分別為 open-hand grip on a shelf、sloper、pocket
↓由左至右為 crimp grip、open-handed grip、wrap grip、the pinch grip.
側拉(Side Pull)
↓Opposing sidepull
倒拉(Undercling)
↓左為側拉,右為倒拉
Gaston
↓用左右反向力來撐住身體
註:這個動作比較費力,沒需要當然不作。
平衡攀登技巧(一)
斜板(Slab Climbing) [ul] Keep your weight directly over your boots Maintain the upright posture Place your boots deliberately Climb fluidly and lightly, not overloading the holds with jerky moves Use outside edging only for rest step not for the move High stepping is sometimes necessary to maximize the reach [/ul][ul] 讓身體重量平均落於腳上 保持直立的姿勢 移動腳步穩而準確 優美而輕巧的攀登,不要因快速移動而加重支持的力氣 於斜板上攀爬,只有休息時才用外側踩法,移動時不用 為了搆到較遠的把手點,有時需用High Stepping方式 [/ul]
↓離開岩面保持直立較易攀爬
↓對腳信心不足,身體鼓起更不好爬;相信腳、離開岩面會比較穩。
↓在斜板上,手點、腳點,甚至確保點往往都很小
↓在難度高的斜板上,為了提高腳步,柔軟度就很重要。
↓墊高腳就可以抓到把手點。
岩面(Face Climbing):岩面攀登分解為以下幾個步驟,可以用來對付難點(crux moves)﹕ [ul] 準備,觀察路線(Relaxed phase):Chalk if possible; Do not move the foot, which will pops off holds; Do not overcling with handholds. 腳移動至下一踏足點,同時手用力(維持平衡)(Crank/Step phase):High step if possible and precise placement of foot. 鎖住(Lock-off phase):Better getting hips close to the wall; Do not let the foot move on the edge, which will rotate off. 手移動至下一把手點(Extension phase):Do not melt off clinging hands; Free hand must reach for the right handhold; Foot must not blow off. [/ul]
On near-vertical rock, turnout keeps the body close to the wall, minimizing outward pull on handholds. This is an effective positions typically reduce outward pull on the hands and improve direction of force on handholds by keeping the body close to the rock.
在接近垂直的岩面,移轉身體靠向岩壁,把向外的拉力減到最小,這種典型的姿勢可使手支撐向外的拉力減小,增力往岩壁靠的力氣。
↓腳的位置對於上攀有很大的影嚮;太高,一開始的移動都是靠手拉;太低,抓到下一個把手點之前腳就懸空了。
↓『推』所花的力氣比『拉』小
↓B腳位置太低,身體拉太長了。
↓A錯誤,腳踩太裏面,身體拉太直了。
↓左錯誤,易失去平衡,且沒辦法用力站起來。
裂隙(Crack Climbing):裂隙從大到小,尺寸各有不同,都需實地練習。 (Note: It would be wise to tape up well before practicing crack climbing.) [ul] Narrow cracks: Up to 1½ in --- finger and toe tip jams. Medium cracks: 1½ to 4 in --- hand, fist, foot jams. Wide cracks: 4 in to body size. Off-width cracks: No part of the body fits well. Chimney: Entire body or wider. [/ul]
Pocket Climbing:When using pockets, you can improve two-finger holding power by keeping your index(食指) and pinkie(小指) fingers down with your thumb.
Finger Jam:扭住為最高原則
Two most important rules in jamming: [ul] Move one limb at a time. Achieve solid jams or locks with three limbs before you move a forth one. Never move on a jam you can't hang on. Take time to get jam right, so that you know you can hang on it. [/ul]
Off-Finger Jam:Around a #1.5-Friend-sized crack for the most.
Thin-Hand Jam:Approximately #2 Friend-sized --- can be the most insecure and also quite strenuous if it's a long section.
Hand Jam:Thumbs down and apply torque. The #2.5 to #3 Friend-sized cracks are the most secure and enjoyable to climb; slightly larger hand cracks, #3.5 Friend-sized, require a more strenuous cup than the standard hand jam.
Fist Jam:Fist crack run about the size of a #4 Friend for most.
Off-Width Jam:These are cracks into which you can jam your whole arm and perform armbar. Armbar involves levering your arm in the crack by pushing your hand against one side of the crack while the elbow pushes against the other.
Foot Jam
↓A正確,B錯誤,會失去平衡
↓A:塞入岩縫。B:腳尖及腳跟擠塞
↓A:塞入岩縫,腳趾塞入裂縫,扭轉腳。B:摩擦岩角,腳跟比腳尖低,向下施力
煙囪(Chimney Climbing)
利用反向力上攀
[ul] Knee Chimney Foot-Back Chimney [/ul]
平衡攀登技巧(二)
內角(Dihedral Climbing):Pushing, stemming instead of pulling
岩角(Arete Climbing):Arete climbs almost always are exposed, committing, and exhilarating. Before starting out, consider which side of the edge you'll predominantly be climbing on. Heel, toe, and calf hooks are invaluable aids to maintain balance, limit the "hinge" effect, and unweight your arm. Constantly look and feel around the corner for hidden holds. If there are no holds between some blank sections, you may consider slapping technique. Slappling is a dynamic maneuver, and you must make use of the dead point --- that millisecond when your body is weightless. Preceding any slap, you must dynamically hoist your torso up and slight in. At the dead point, a hand flashes up for the hold. Perfect timing is the key.
懸岩(Overhang Climbing):If you find a good hand hold, but can't reach it, think about a heel-hook to take the weight off of your arms, then you will have the strength to reach higher and further. Sometimes that is not enough. Try the [I]twist-lock[/I] technique, it may help you to beat the long reach problem. (Twist-Lock 參見下文)
橫渡(Traversing)
Hand Traverse:use foot frictioning against wall
換腳(Foot Switch)
Stemming (左右撐壁攀登)
Layback(背向後倚式)
Mantleshelf (岩階攀登)
平衡攀登技巧(三)
Lock-Off:To hold on to the rock with one bent arm while using the other arm to reach up for the next hold or to place or clip protection. Lock-offs on small holds will get you pumped in a hurry.
一隻手臂抓住把手點並且彎曲手臂、固定不使伸直,然後用另一隻手去抓下一個把手點或架設確保點;在小的把手點做這個動作手臂很快就會充血變硬。
Flagging:A climbing technique whereby one foot is used behind the other or pushing off the wall for balance. This way can improve balance on barn door moves or side pull moves.
一隻腳放在另一隻腳的後面將身體推離牆壁來保持平衡,避免開門效應或是在水平側拉時保持平衡。
↓AB.開門效應:攀登者的重心放在四點,把手點過遠。當右手放開時,身體就旋轉擺離岩面,稱為開門效應。C.將體重轉向不動手之一側,左手右腳出力,左腳保持平衡,使重心在左手下。D.或以反向力移動身體,將右腳擺到左腳後。
Diagonalling:This is a body position where one hand and the opposite foot(inside or outside edging) are in line. This type of body position allows for a better reach to holds located diagonally above.
手和另一側的腳在同一垂直線上,在把手點遠的時候使用。
Drop-Knee:An exaggerated back-step where one knee is dropped toward the ground while the other is pointing up, resulting in a stable stemming position of the legs, especially on overhanging rock.
一隻腳的膝蓋朝下,另一隻的朝上,使得雙腳支撐得較好,尤其在懸岩的地方。
Back Stepping: Technique using the outside edge of the foot on a hold which is under or behind you while climbing. This allows you to use holds that are not reasonable to use with the inside of your foot and by so doing maintain a comfortable balanced position.
使用腳的外側踩在身體後方或下面的腳點上,可以讓你抓到其他姿勢抓不到的把手點,或是有較佳的平衡姿勢。
General guideline: When the footholds face each other, uses Drop-Knee technique; When the handholds are side pulls or underclings, uses Back Stepping or Diagonalling technique.
一般原則:當兩個腳點是相向的時候,用Drop-Knee的技巧;如果把手點是側拉或下拉就用Back Stepping 或是 Diagonalling。
平衡攀登技巧(四)
Twist-Lock:Twist-lock involve turning your upper body to face the hold being locked off. It provides reach and strength advantages. Steep climbing lock-off strength varies dramatically with body position. The body is strongest at lock-offs when the torso turns toward the hold being locked. Twisting your lock-offs also adds significantly to your reach by positioning the shoulder of your reaching arm closer to its destination.
側身:將上半身將向Lock off的把手點那邊,這樣有抓得遠及力量的優勢。在陡峭的地方攀登用這一招可以使力量大增,當驅幹轉到把手點側時,身體最穩固;另外側身可以使你抓得較遠,因為除了手臂還加上你的肩膀長度。
註:這是一種最重要的攀岩技巧之一,如果不會,在岩場時要特別請教有經驗的人。
High –Stepping:Step high all the way up to your next foothold. Shift your weight onto one foot as the other foot lifts off of its hold. Push up and reach to the next handhold. Flexibility is important for high stepping. Extreme high-steps put a tremendous strain on the knee when weight is rocked on, so go slowly.
盡量的提到下一個腳點,把你的體重放到一隻腳上,然後另一隻腳就離開原來的點,往上推讓手抓到下一個點。這個動作柔軟度很重要,另外身體搖動時對膝蓋的壓力很大,所以要慢慢移動。
↓左上:側身的時候配合Diagonal,左手右腳用力,左腳平衡。右上:在很角度很大的懸岩上側身,懸空的腳幫助身體轉向而作出側身的動作。左下:就算踩在相對的側向腳點,只要一隻腳的膝蓋朝下,仍可做出側身的動作(Dropping one knee allows you to twist a lock-off even when stemming between opposed footholds)。
Figure-4:A climbing technique where the climber throws one leg over a wrist or arm that is holding onto a hold. Using the leg to push the body higher, the climber is then able to reach holds that would not be reachable otherwise. This is a pretty handy, though strenuous, technique for use on overhanging rock and an option when you cannot dyno.
四字式:這種姿勢有一隻腿會翻到有抓住點雙手的手腕或手臂上,用這隻腿把身體往上推,讓手可以抓到下個把手點(其他姿勢都抓不到的),雖然很費力,但在懸岩處或你不會動態攀登時很有用。
Dyno:Dynamic movement towards a distant hold, aka dead point.
動態:在距離很遠的點使用,沒抓好可能就墜落了。
Rest (Face) [ul] A hand jam in a pocket A heel hook or toe hook A knee, shoulder, or even a headbar Alternately switching fingers on a hold Hanging straight-armed from a jug A drop-knee with the hips close to the wall [/ul]
Rest (Crack) [ul] Stem in a corner or leg in the crack Hang straight-armed from a solid jam Lock a knee or leg in the crack Find a kneebar or even a locker armbar Backstep in a corner [/ul]
↓手臂伸直比較省力。
↓腳和膝蓋頂住讓手休息。
↓肉包--可能是在點上最有效的休息方式。
↓假如你不能整個手掌握住把手點,就用拇指鉤住,搖動其他手指頭,使其恢復活力。
↓不要抓著這個大點,直接把手臂扣上去,整個人放鬆休息一下。
↓換有力的手指頭抓住點,讓沒力的休息一下。
↓不只在裂隙攀登時用到,平常也可以把手臂撐住當固定點讓其他部位休息。
↓當小腿不夠長時,試著把手掌壂進去增加高度。
↓下面這種姿勢不但無法休息還會更累。
↓外側踩法是一種不錯的休息方式,但同時帶給你恐懼(這個動作感覺不太安全)。
↓各種不同姿勢來固定身體讓手休息。
【转自 攀岩最爱·北京】
http://www.panyancn.com/bbs/read.php?tid=13094
★☆★☆★ 西东京-多摩地区[稲城長沼]篮球场 每周六下午★☆★☆★
★☆★☆★JR 西国分寺 攀岩爱好者-东京★☆★☆★ |
|