青春18--skywalker的东北日本列车之旅游记

skywalker925

刚刚在10号从北京探亲归来的我本来没有打算去任何地方走走了。但是突然被告知有了4天的假期,既然有了假期就要好好的利用。我不喜欢在家睡大觉无可事事的度日,就是因为有了这突如其来的四天休假,才让我有了这次突然的旅程。在仓促中准备也同样的在仓促的走马观花中结束了。

可以说这次的东北日本之行是一次既美妙而又有些遗憾的旅途。美妙的是那种车窗中看世界的感觉。无论是高山平野,树木房屋都被裹了一层厚厚的银白色。坐在暖暖的车厢内透过大大的玻璃欣赏外面的白雪皑皑是说不出的一种感受。随着列车翻高山越河流,那雄伟的日本海和那壮丽的松树林,一切的一切都是那样令人窒息的美,一路上自己的心情也随之不断起伏。

唯一的遗憾就是旅途时间的过短,行走又是那样的仓促。如果目的只是为了乘列车周游,随着列车的移动及车窗的视野来认识东北部日本的话,显然已经很好并成功的完成了。但沿路景色的雄伟秀丽是我所料未及的,严重的超越了我的想像。以至多少次对于风景的感动和惊讶转变为一种种的冲动迫使我要冲出车窗去与大自然融合,去静静的呼吸,去自由的奔跑,去沐浴阳光。同样的还有一个想要冲出去的理由就是—摄影。我喜欢乡村的那种美,祥和宁静而又富有浓浓的生活气息。大城市只是高楼大厦给人以清晰的线条,单调死板。只可惜急促的行程不允许我能停下来在列车经过的一些地方细细品味,慢慢拍照。这就好比是一个漂亮,性感并且赤裸的女人在成熟健康并且功能齐全的你面前招摇调逗。而你却不能对她施加任何行动。任你看的张口垂涎却又无可奈何。迫切、烦躁、压抑、郁闷的心情交织着，这就是列车中的我的心情。

喜欢一个人旅游的原因有很多。自由、随意等等都可以成为理由。但是有一点很关键的就是一个很安静、你可以静静的仔细的去欣赏和思考一些东西。但是一个人的旅游是很寂寞的有些时候也是无助的。这就需要你有一定的行动力和忍耐力，当然了还要有体力。我这次出行虽然短暂,却得到了在日本各地朋友的帮助,也是为这次行程添上了不少花絮。在次特向在长野县松本的天才兜兜、在宫城县仙台的bluebird、sheng、kircheis、allenwz、kjordan和siaoly致谢。感谢对我的盛情接待，同样也向在山形县的山形的DIO表示感谢,由于行程的原因未能打扰。还有图腾(生日快乐啊)和挥刀老哥的帮助在此一并谢之。最后感谢fungi介绍的路线,他的帖子也是我这次行程的原型。小春坛子的人们是真热情啊。


下面游记开始。



【另外好一些的照片将在相册版发出,也希望大家去看看】

[此贴子已经被作者于2005-1-22 16:18:13编辑过]

skywalker925

为时四天的东北日本铁道旅游是在一张「青春18」任意乘车券的驱使下开始的。

总全程距离∶1，765．1公里

总乘车时间∶36小时56分

总普通运费∶30，360银(青春18的网上购价,四天份6000银)

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1月16日 星期日 雨

路线: 田端（山手線）→新宿（中央線）→八王子（中央本線）→甲府（中央本線）→松本






松本（篠ノ井線）→長野（信越本線）→直江津（信越本線）→柏崎（越後線）→吉田（越後線）→新潟

全程距离: 492．9公里

乘车时间: 10小时42分

普通运费: 8,510银





4:00 起床, 4:30 上路。





头天晚上在水潭一直灌水灌到凌晨2点。只睡了两个小时四点便又爬了起来,整理了行囊匆匆的从家出来了。



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出来的时候外面下着小雨,第一天的出行就赶上一个坏天气,郁闷着向车站走去。




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5:17 田端站, 5:27 山手线向新宿进发







走到车站由于晚了一分钟,5:16的电车已然开走。这迫使我第一天的行程都要向后推迟。这里吃到一分钟意味着到达松本要迟到一小时,而后面的新潟更是难说了。







5:36新宿，6:55八王子, 8:44甲府


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一路上都是在下雨,在中央线过了高尾山不久,开始出现了雪的景色。






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在车中顶着寒风努力拍片的skywalker。

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这两张是在车窗中拍的,好冷啊~~~~~~~~~

skywalker925

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10:56  到了松本,出了车站首先查好了去长野的电车时刻和由长野至新潟的最终电车。这些都是十分重要的。长距离的坐车不同于在市内,有时一天才有几班,错过了一班通常要等上几个小时都是很常见的。







出了松本站,看到了天才兜兜mm已经在外面等我了。过去立刻打了招呼一起走出了车站。松本市不是很大,但小而紧凑,走路就可以将各个地方逛完。兜兜给我做了很好的向导。我们首先在市内看了看,大街上几乎是看不到行人,不像东京那样摩肩接踵。到了松本城,由于今天正好赶上冰灯展,所以聚集了很多的人。只见一个个的摄影发烧友架起了长枪短炮一通狂拍。偶也不甘势弱,立刻抢占了一个位置便喀喳了起来。只是天气不是很好,一直在下着小雨,给拍照片带来了严重的影响。松本城不是很大,但是看起来还是比较雄伟,至可惜天气不好,不能真正的欣赏。



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松本市内样子。


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在路上看到了一辆很可爱的车,就随手拍了下来。


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这个是松本市里面的一座寺院。

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这里就是观光名所的松本城,那天正好下雨,所以天显得灰蒙蒙的。

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正在喂鸽子的孩子。


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护城河中游弋的天鹅。

skywalker925

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13:16 坐上了去长野的电车。车里很空,几乎都是老爷爷老奶奶。这一路上的积雪非常厚,雪景也甚是优美。为了可以拍上一些pp,偶在中途的姨舍站下了车。之后便十分后悔,因为下一趟车要在一个半小时后才来,我一个人在这荒无人烟的地界只有苦苦的等待。这个站很小,甚至没有站员剪票。出去走了走,突然起了雾,地下天上世界都成为了一片白色,说不出的一种感受。看到了关于日本第一清泉的路牌,但是已然没有了路,想摸索的去寻找一下,便向山上爬去。雾越下越大,看不清前方,突然脚下一沉,积雪直没腿根。我大吃一惊,不敢再继续前进了。山路不同寻常,况且又是积雪,看不到雪层下面的情况,不情愿的我还是决定回到车站等电车开来了。错过了一班电车,还不知道能否赶上到新潟的最后电车。要是这样的话整个行程的计划就要受到影响,心里不时的担心。





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本来应该是一个多小时的路程但我却莫名其妙的中途下车了。



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没有人检票,上车的人要自觉领取一张整理券然后山车买票。好自觉的社会。

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下一趟电车来有一个多小时的时间,只有拍照片消磨时间了。


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无聊的一个人孤独的等候电车的驶来。

skywalker925

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没有在长野停留很长的时间,打算早一些到新潟安顿一下。便在长野站的周围转了转,觉得没有松本更旅游城市化。







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这是长野站内的样子。

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17:47到达了直江津。只有2分钟的时间,赶紧到检票口盖上站章便匆匆跑到站台17:49发向新潟的最后电车离站了。



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这一路上天已暗了下来,但是还可以从车窗中感受外面绚丽的景色。积雪又比刚才的路线上厚了许多。由于这一路上有很多宽细的河流。雪落在河流中大大小小的石头上,像是一顶顶白色的蘑菇错综排列着,真想下来拍几个片子,但是时间上已经不可能了。



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天逐渐的暗了下来,看到外面一层微蓝色。






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在电车上看到的一个plmm,看的我的傻眼了。








18:40 车到了柏崎,18:44越后线向吉田行进。




19:55 到了吉田。19:59 换车又吉田向新潟方向。

skywalker925

screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt='Click here to open new windownCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor='hand'; this.alt='Click here to open new windownCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open('attachments/dvbbs/2005-1/2005121225654784.jpg');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" />

20:47 新潟到达。




新潟车站的样子和周边很像东京站。只是才晚上不到9点,大街上已经没有了行人。一个人溜达在空空的大街上不免有些孤独,至少看看mm也能温暖一下我寂寞的心。



我一路向日本海方向走去,气温逐渐的冷了下来,我拿出了大衣穿上。在接近日本海的时候,要穿越一个树林。说实话很恐怖,没有灯光照射,高大的树,静静的又空无一人,只是感到的是一股股寒气穿肌透骨。但是偶一咬牙还是冲进了黑乎乎的林子,一个大男人不能这样就回去啊。走了不一会儿,感受到了日本海的存在。非常大的海浪声,从黑黑的前方传来。那种声音像是在咆哮,让我有些不寒而栗。站在日本海面前,还是第一次在这样黑的深夜去看和感受大海。心情也在变化。由惧怕而便的平和,再由平和而转入兴奋。大海永远会给人的心情带来不一样的感受。



在日本海海岸停留了一会儿,便开始由原路返回。一路上找可以避风的旮旯儿想忍一夜,走着走着看到了吉野家,这才想起来还没有吃饭,进去整了碗猪肉饭。吃饱了出来到了车站,看到外面等bus的地方有长椅,便没有犹豫的躺了上去。不是很舒服,迷迷糊糊的进入了梦乡,但是不到一个小时就被冻醒了。一看表才凌晨3点,离车站开门还有一个多小时。不敢再睡了,便起来溜达。。。。。。



第一天的行程就这样结束了。



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在新泻站台上的站立速食面条。

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可能只有在新泻才有的便利店dailyhot

screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt='Click here to open new windownCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor='hand'; this.alt='Click here to open new windownCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open('attachments/dvbbs/2005-1/2005121233536267.jpg');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" />

看着图标向日本海方向前进。

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夜幕下的日本海。

skywalker925

第二天 1月17日 星期一 阴





路线: 新潟（信越本線）→新津（羽越本線）→酒田（羽越本線）→秋田




秋田（奥羽本線）→青森




全程距离: 472．7公里




乘车时间: 10小时23分钟




普通运费: 7,350银

   




早上4:30,我终于坐在了车站的候车室中任由暖暖的热风烘烤我冻僵的肌肤。想睡一会儿,但是不断的有漂亮的mm进来候车,我舍不得睡啊。看着mm们,偶所有的疲劳也就消失了。


screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt='Click here to open new windownCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor='hand'; this.alt='Click here to open new windownCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open('attachments/dvbbs/2005-1/200512123365469.jpg');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" />




5:18 坐上了信越本线,向新津出发了,然后转了羽越本线沿着日本海向秋田前进。在电车中暖和了过来,我又开始生龙活虎一般的在车厢里窜来窜去。透过车窗看到雄伟的日本海,心情极为舒畅。列车也犹如穿山甲一般穿过接连不断的山洞,一暗一明交相呼应。这一路由于是海边沿岸,所以积雪不是很多,反而看到树木都是郁郁葱葱,不像是北国的风光。



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在新津车站中取暖用的大火炉。






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羽越本線带领我领略日本海的美丽风光。



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不断映入眼帘的日本海景色。


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车中千姿百态的学生。



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映入车窗中的美丽景色。

[此贴子已经被作者于2005-1-22 13:32:42编辑过]

skywalker925

screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt='Click here to open new windownCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor='hand'; this.alt='Click here to open new windownCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open('attachments/dvbbs/2005-1/20051221128669.jpg');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" />

酒田车站内的样子。

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一路上的风景,雪雪雪,哪里都是雪。


screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt='Click here to open new windownCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor='hand'; this.alt='Click here to open new windownCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open('attachments/dvbbs/2005-1/2005121233928892.jpg');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" />

这个是电车内的检票机。东北日本除了新泻和仙台以外车站检票还都是人工。估计是利用的人比较少的缘故吧。



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车厢里我的地盘儿。

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经过酒田,11:31分到达了秋田。因为离去青森的发车时间还有近两个小时,便走出车站看看秋田的市内风光。秋田市也不是很大,又是沿着主干道一直往下走,希望能走到日本海岸。这一下一直走了1个多小时,看到前方是山了。过了山才能看到日本海。由于没有时间只好放弃,坐了bus回到了车站。刚刚检票进站便听到了往青森去电车要发车的广播,急忙跑了起来将将赶到。又忘记了吃午饭了。。。13:13 向青森发车了。






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秋田站内样子。






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好像是只有秋田才有的便利店。






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一个大户人人家。






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再发现潜水者建议用这个钻出水面。

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冬日。

skywalker925

screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt='Click here to open new windownCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor='hand'; this.alt='Click here to open new windownCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open('attachments/dvbbs/2005-1/20051221513870.jpg');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" />

17:12 车开进了青森站。看着都是向北海道出发的人流。出了车站外面居然不是很冷,决定先在附近逛逛再找住的地方。这里的积雪很厚。铲雪开路,积到道路两旁的雪有一人左右。夜色中走在青森唯一的繁华街上就是一些商店和吃饭饮酒的饭馆。唯一醒目的就是车站旁矗立的大桥,夜色下闪着灯光,非常漂亮。四处打听了便宜的住处,被推荐到了一个hotel要3000银子,交了钱领了钥匙一看原来是棺材床还没有电源不能充电。我看了顿时不爽,立刻便退了,说是睡不习惯。又出来开始找住处,问了几个旅馆都比较贵。最后的一个地方,我见主人犹豫便展开攻势,她问我多少钱可以,3000银,立刻成交(后悔说多了)。屋子里面不错,还有电视可以泡澡和偷看别人洗澡,值了。晚上是在便利店买的弁当,回房间后洗了澡换上浴衣看了会儿电视又查了一下明天的路线便昏昏的睡去了。

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青森市内都是这样的路。走在里面像是在战壕里移动的感觉,呵呵。

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看来取自行车的人要费一番工夫了。

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汽车上面也是厚厚的积雪。

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夜晚中的青森大桥,甚是雄伟。

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那个一开始3000银的像棺材似的hotel,立刻拿了包走人了。

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后来找到了3000银的民宿,在里面那才叫一个爽。刚刚洗完热水澡,开始饮小酒了。

skywalker925

第三天




1月18日 星期二 晴



路线∶青森（東北本線）→八戸（青い森鉄道）→盛岡（東北本線）→一ノ関→松島



  　　松島海岸（仙石線）→仙台



全程距离: 386．7公里



乘车用时: 7小时24分



普通运费: 7,670银






早上6点就挣开眼睛了,赶紧洗漱完毕整理好行李退了房就出来了。早上的青森还是有些冷的,路上都结了冰,走在上面非常的滑。到了车站看到八户的车要7:10才发,时间尚早,便来到海鲜商店街去看看海鲜。由于过早,很多商家还没有开门。海鲜的品种不是很多,但价格非常便宜。一个盛满海胆的饭居然才一千多,难以至信。由于早上没有生食的习惯,所以什么也没有品尝,倒是很想吃上一个青森的苹果。


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早上在海鲜市场看到的うに丼,才1200超级便宜啊。


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再看看这大螃蟹,真想买一个带回家。

screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt='Click here to open new windownCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor='hand'; this.alt='Click here to open new windownCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open('attachments/dvbbs/2005-1/200512221716858.jpg');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" />

在青森的冬天人们最长用的鞋子。

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7:10分, 电车缓缓的出站向八户驶去。东北的电车一般都是提前20分钟左右就进站等候了,可以在车厢里小寐。



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在电车上拍的日出,由于反光根本就不清楚的。


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8:39到了八户转了银河铁道这个不在青春18的应用范围内,所以另外买了票,2993银,疼~~~~~。


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电车一路咯噔咯噔,10:54车终于咯噔到了盛冈。跑到外面照了车站的样子,发现没有什么可看的东西,便又进了车站坐了11:06的东北本线一路下去14:12到达了被称为日本三景的松岛。